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For further information about Centreland Singers contact Jonathan Smith: Telephone 01242 237948 | |
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ORIGINS There are various viewpoints & beliefs on where and how the Jingle Dress came into being. Here is the most popular story:- It is said that the Jingle Dress came from the Ojibway people in Canada. One of the people was sick, the medicine man had a dream in which 4 young women wore dresses with jingles attached to them and danced in a certain way around the sick person. The sick person was healed by this. He told The People of his dream, and the dresses were made. He then showed the 4 young women how to dance and what to do as he had dreamed. They then did as was shown to them and the sick person was indeed healed. HOW THE DRESS HAS CHANGED INTO WHAT IT IS TODAY One account states that a Jingle Dress was seen in the 1920's, although it probably would not be very recognisable by today's dancers. The account says that it was a very simple, plain dress with jingles attached. Unfortunately, the informant did not describe how that dancer was dancing. The Jingle Dress in it's more modern form first appeared at a contempory pow wow probably in the 80's, some may remember both the dress style and the way it was danced - the most popular style then was a tabard over an underdress secured by a belt. The decoration was then quite simple in comparison to modern styles. They all carried a small bag, a cloth scarf and a fan. Another scarf was also worn around the neck. Beaded leggings & moccasins were also worn (as today). The steps used were less fancy than today and much more "flat footed". The side step was also very tight and never done "up on the toes". | |
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Clare (above) dancing at the American Museum, Bath.
Sleeves - either short or long, the most popular style is a puffed sleeve but I have also seen straight or a style made to represent a Traditional women's dress.
Underdress - all seem to have underdresses, especially with the 2 piece dress, these are long, usually undecorated, short sleeves or sleeveless, light fabric such as cotton. From personal experience, I would say that they are one of the essentials as you often get very hot and need to take the jingle dress off inbetween dancing.
Hair Style - Most common is a double French braid that comes down with 1 braid on each side of the head, hair is worn completely tucked or braided away including any fringe. Also still popular is the single French braid.
Footnote: it is a bit of a "faux pas" to put on a black wig, they don't suit anyone frankly. However, it is acceptable for women to attach false braids to their own braids (if they are not long enough), these are always wrapped with fabric tape in such a way so the join is hidden.
Many then add thin ribbon in a pattern along the entire length. If you have short or very layered hair and if you are serious about getting it right, you have no option but to grow your hair !!
Evolution - During the 90's, the dress started to become more elaborate as the jingle dress dancers had to compete with the ever evolving Fancy Shawl dancers (in those days, Jingle Dress & Fancy Shawl were often in the same contest category). Instead of the simple Tabbard style, the first Fitted style "all-in-one" dresses were made. Towards the end of the 90's, contest organisers separated Fancy Shawl & Jingle Dress into 2 categories to reflect the growing diversity between the 2 dance styles.
Modern Dress Design - From late 90's to today, the Jingle Dress then went through various other changes, the dress now is either a Fitted "All-in-One" with zips added for ease of use, or a 2 piece Skirt & Jacket with "invisible" zips and made to look as if it is really a dress. Some skirts have an upside down side zip to allow for sitting down without squashing the jingles. Both styles are very elaborate with appliqué, ribbonwork, bright colours etc.
Materials used can be anything (and not just satin anymore) the brighter the better! Quite a few use patterned fabrics as well but it really depends on how the dancer wants the overall design to look.
The Top Half has hardly any jingles on or none at all, it is mostly given over to design work, but you often see a row of jingles anyway in amongst it all.
Beaded Items - Gone are the Bag and the 2 scarves. Today's Jingle Dress dancers have a beaded choker with a beaded pendant attached at the front (replaces the neck scarf), younger dancers have beaded headbands, all dancers have matching beaded hair pieces with large plumes worn at the back of the head, matching beaded braid "holders" and all have matching fully beaded leggings & moccasins.
Other Beadwork - Some dancers also have beaded vests and or beaded cuffs although not that many.
Fans - All dancers carry a fan (the wide type), some bead the handles.
Belts - Most also have a wide belt - either leather with metal spots or some (not many) are fabric to match in with the overall regalia design.
(Above): Anneli Talja (from Finland) and Susanne Jensen (from Denmark) proudly display their Jingle Dresses at Bush Farm Bison Centre Powwow, Wiltshire! The photograph does not do justice to the dedication, intricacy and colour in their craftwork.
All her own work: Sky Procter (above) poses at Bush Farm Bison Centre Powwow, 2005, in the beautiful Jingle Dress she made.
Jo Bouncer (above) in her Jingle Dress at the Bush Farm Bison Centre Powwow, 2005. Note how Jo has made use of personal designs (see also Susanne Jensen's work opposite).
ESSENTIALS:
1 or 2 piece Jingle Dress
Belt
Beaded Leggings
Beaded Moccasins
Fan
Beaded choker with Beaded Pendant attached
Beaded Hair Barette and Plume
Braid wraps
Beaded braid holders
Under-dress
SOURCES
For Jingle Lids, beads, leather goods, videos etc - you need to get these from the States. There are plenty of suppliers such as Crazy Crow Trading Post, just search for "Native American Craft Supplies" on your web browser.
There are also bead suppliers in the UK such as "Ells & Farrier" but you would have to ask around!
The Identity Store in the UK also can import on your behalf anything from the Crazy Crow catalogue, they are usually at Pow wow's in the UK so that you could ask them to get what you want.
Fabrics - really hunt around, markets are a good source as they are cheaper, I am told that Birmingham is a good place to go but I am sure that there are plenty of shops etc locally.
Patterns - Contact me (via Steve Ratty - see above) as I have modern style patterns (home grown mind), these cost £5.00 each to cover postage, my time & reproduction costs. I do not make a profit. Please note that these are not commercially made!
I am not aware of any other pattern sources apart from one produced that is the old style (tabard).
For further assistance & ideas, check out the Gathering of Nations website and look for the photo's on there, also Centreland website and follow link to the Danish website.
Garance Parker (above) shows off one of her beautifully made Jingle Dresses at Bush Farm Bison Centre, Wiltshire.
